How to change your spark Plugs

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How to change your spark Plugs Empty How to change your spark Plugs

Post by NeNa on Mon Jan 19, 2009 2:29 am

  1. Expect spark-plug work to be tedious. If this is your first time,
    plan 3 or 4 hours after engine cools (or 1 hour on several days),
    allowing 15 minutes per plug. It is harder than changing air filters, fixing flat tires, or starting a mower.
  2. Consult your vehicle's manual. Look up where your spark plugs are,
    how many you have, the correct "gap", and the size socket needed to
    remove them. Also write down the vehicle's make, model, and year.
  3. Visit your local auto parts store. Find (either by looking up in
    the provided reference book or by asking an employee) the correct spark
    plugs for your vehicle. The store also has socket wrenches, plus
    spark-plug sockets (with gasket), and socket-extension rods or
    swivel-joints to reach recessed plugs.
  4. Find out (from the reference book, the packaging, or the employee)
    if these spark plugs need to be "gapped". Some modern plugs should not
    be gapped (but others can have different gaps, depending on use in
    either 6-cylinder or V-8 engines, etc.).
  5. Park vehicle, turn off the engine, and open the engine compartment,
    to cool for hours. (WARNING: After running a car for a long time, the
    spark plugs can be the hottest part of engine! While it can require
    several hours to cool enough, it can require several weeks to heal
    burnt skin.)
  6. Take (if needed) a wire-gauge spark plug gap tool and adjust the
    distance between the two electrodes. Between the electrodes is where a
    spark is made. One electrode will be an L-shaped piece of metal (hook),
    the other a metal prong centered directly across from it. Set the gap
    between the two electrodes, from .028-.060 inch, such as .035/.040
    /.043 /.050, as in book (see Tips below).
  7. Collect tools & new plugs (perhaps in a tool-tray). Remember
    which direction the socket-wrench switches to reverse/unscrew: wrench
    might not be visible when working back plugs.
  8. Check fit of new plugs inside wrench-socket gasket. If new plugs
    stick to rubber gasket, consider removing gasket with screwdriver in
    square hole, to just use tape. Like taping screws to a screwdriver, the
    socket can be taped to spark plugs (not the threads) with scotch tape,
    for easy release once inside the engine. Otherwise, have pliers to pry
    the socket off new plugs once installed.
  9. Locate (with the help of your manual or a repair manual for your
    vehicle) the distributor spark-plug cables/wires. The number of wires
    will be equal to the number of spark plugs your engine has. Often these
    wires are red or black, and will be equally divided on opposite sides
    of the engine.
  10. Using masking tape, mark each of these wires for where they
    connect. Don't rely on memory: if interrupted, easy to forget, and
    engine can run rough with crossed plug wires. For 8 cylinders, deducing
    plug connections is almost impossible (120 choices for 5 wires) -- in
    that case you must contact an expert or study wiring guides.
  11. Remove each spark-plug cable, pulling the caps (to avoid breaking
    cable wires). Caps should come loose by very intense twisting/pulling
    (avoid jerking/hitting fingers).
  12. Using a spark-plug socket, remove each plug from the engine, and
    replace each with a new spark plug. Don't over tighten (usually just
    1/16 turn, after finger-tight).
  13. Replace the spark-plug cables on the same plugs they originally came from, and remove the masking tape.
  14. Remove tools near engine (beware the moving belts), close your engine compartment, and start your vehicle.

  • Disconnecting only one wire at a time while changing that one spark
    plug while leaving the other spark plug wires in place helps to avoid
    mixing up the firing order.
  • Using a spark plug socket (with internal gasket) instead of a
    conventional socket will help you to not drop a spark plug when
    removing or inserting them. (If dropped, the gap often changes, must be
  • To ensure that the plugs are not over- or under-tightened, use a
    torque wrench and tighten them to your vehicle's specs. This
    information can be found in shop manuals or by calling the service
    department of your local dealership.
  • Examine your old spark plugs when you remove them. They should look
    slightly burnt at the tip, maybe with some white spotting. If they are
    bent, black, or broken, you could have a bigger problem and should
    consult a mechanic.
  • Diesel engines do not have spark plugs.
  • These basic steps apply to replacing spark plugs in all engine types.
  • Whether or not you service your own car, invest in a set of the
    dealer's shop manuals from the car maker. These are much more in-depth
    than the repair guides you find in the auto parts store.
  • Put a very small amount of anti-seize lubricant on the plug threads
    if you are installing them in an aluminum engine. The anti-seize
    prevents a reaction between dissimilar metals.
  • Twist and pull only on the boot insulator portion and not the wire
    cable itself, lest it separates immediately necessitating the purchase
    of a whole new set of ignition wires. There are optional tools made
    just for this step.
  • Use a small amount of dielectric silicone compound on the inside of
    the spark plug wire boot to ease removal in future maintenance
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How to change your spark Plugs Empty Re: How to change your spark Plugs

Post by bb4girlie on Tue Jan 20, 2009 11:54 pm

flower nice Smile nvr knew we had a how to section Smile
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